PEAK: Mt. Rainier 14,411’
ROUTE: Emmons Glacier
RATING: S2
DATE: Monday August 9th-Friday August 13th
LEADER: Gabe Starr
Trip Stats: Elevation Gain ~10,000’ ~15 miles RT
Requirements:
All applicants must have completed intermediate snow skills and at least two snow climbs that required time moving as a rope team across glaciers. This route gains ~10,000 ft and requires all team members to be in excellent physical condition. This is posted as a 5 day climb but the itinerary could shorten to 3 or 4 days depending on weather. This is a late season attempt for this route making a very physically difficult route even more challenging and technical. If you do not meet the above requirements please do not apply.
FEES: All climbers must purchase a climber recovery fee which is $52/adult this must be bought before we get to the park https://www.nps.gov/mora/planyourvisit/climbing-fee-faqs.htm
This is the king of the Cascade volcanoes. Rainier's 14,411' summit is a worthy goal for experienced climbers.
Route Description:
Starting at the White River Campground (4,400') take the Glacier Basin trail 3.3 miles to Glacier Basin Camp at 6,000'. Follow the climber's path from the basin up the right side of the creek to the snout of the Inter Glacier at 6,800'. The Inter Glacier serves as a great training ground for inexperienced climbers.
Ascend the Inter Glacier, negotiating crevasses as needed to Camp Curtis (9,000') which is located on the south side of Ruth Ridge. From Camp Curtis, traverse and descend 150 feet to the Emmons Glacier on a climber’s path of loose rock and clay. Rope up and ascend the Emmons Glacier, paralleling the edge of Ruth Ridge to Camp Schurman (9,460').
From Camp Schurman we’ll climb another 300’ to Emmons Flats where we’ll make camp. The camp is entirely on the glacier. The area will have wands indicating where the camp boundaries lie. It is likely there will be crevasses near camp and everyone will need to watchful.
Since this route is completely on glacier snow, it changes from year to year and season to season, depending on the snowfall, crevasses, and icefalls that determine access to the summit. From Emmons Flats, ascend southerly to the Corridor, a prominent snow slope with fewer crevasses and gentle slopes that rise higher than the rest of the Emmons Glacier. Enter the Corridor between 10,000 and 10,300 feet and ascend to 11,200 feet, where the route becomes steeper (30 to 35 degrees).
From 11,200 feet, the route may take a variety of directions. Ascend glacier slopes through crevasses and seracs, sometimes traversing onto the Winthrop Glacier. The Winthrop frequently has a smooth shoulder above 12,200 feet, with few crevasses and icefalls. This slope can also be icy and is frequently quite hard; carry pickets for use as running protection.
Between 13,500 and 13,700 feet, a bergschrund usually forms at the top of both the Emmons and Winthrop Glaciers. Negotiating our way around the bergschrund will likely be the crux of our climb. The crater rim is 14,250 feet. From the rim, it's just a 15 minute walk to Columbia Crest.
https://www.nps.gov/mora/planyourvisit/upload/Emmons-Winthrop-Routebrief-2017_FINAL.pdf
https://www.summitpost.org/emmons-winthrop-glacier/156360
https://www.outdoorproject.com/united-states/washington/mount-rainier-emmons-winthrop-glacier-route
There are no back up dates for this climb if the weather/conditions are not good we will try to climb something else.
Email Leader to apply gabrielstarr09@gmail.com