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Broken Top Climb Prospectus
PEAK: Broken Top
ELEVATION: 9,175 FT
ROUTE: NW Ridge
RATING: S2
DATE: February TBA (Fri-Sun) LEADER: Vincent Dunn 503-371-1681PARTICIPANT
ROSTER
Assistant:
Climbers:
1. Mike Niemeyer, mwniemeyer@verizon.net
2.
DESCRIPTION
Day one well begin at Dutchman Flat Sno-Park (6,300) near Mt Bachelor at and
travel west along snow-covered Cascade Lakes Hwy dropping down to 6,066' and turning right
(north) toward Todd Lake. From Todd lake we'll proceed north and then northwest to 6,464'
to our camp near Crater Creek. Day one travel will be about 5 miles.
Day two well depart camp early and proceed northerly along the west slope of the
mountain until we gain the NW Ridge. Then up the NW Ridge to the summit and return to camp
via our climbing route.
Day three well pack out the way we came in past Todd Lake and back to Dutchman
Flat.
This will be a challenging climb in full winter conditions. Considerable winter
mountaineering experience required. 3,000+ ft of elevation gain and 18 miles
round-trip. Moderate pace.
MEETING LOCATION AND DRIVING DIRECTIONS
We will meet at SKM in Salem at 6am Friday morning and drive to Dutchman Flat Sno-Park
near Mt Bachelor (150mi/ 3 hrs) via Hwy 22 to Sisters, Bend, and Dutchman Flat.
REFERENCE/MAPS
Thomas, Jeff, Oregon High: A Climbing Guide (Keep Climbing Press, 1991), pp. 104-107.
Maps: Three Sisters Wilderness, published by the USFS in 1981, Geo-Graphics
Three Sisters Wilderness map, or South Sister, 7.5 quadrangle, USGS.
Topo of the Route
EMERGENCY CONTACT
We will be mostly in the Deschutes National Forest within Deschutes County. In case of an
accident, call 911, or notify the Deschutes County Sheriff, 541-388-6502 (Search and
Rescue). Use this second number if the party is overdue by 24 hours.
REQUIRED EQUIPMENT AND CLOTHING
ESSENTIALS: map and compass (GPS unit if you have one), headlamp with extra batteries
and bulb, sunglasses and/or ski goggles, sunscreen and lip protection, small first aid
kit, waterproof matches and fire starter, 2 liters of water, pocket knife, whistle, food
for 2 full days, snacks, extra food, extra clothing, tarp/emergency blanket, insulated pad
CAMPING: tent, pad, and sleeping bag suitable for cold weather winter camping,
stove and fuel
CLOTHING FOR COLD, RAIN, WIND, AND INTENSE SUN: wool or synthetic clothing (several
layers), wool or pile cap, sun hat or bandana, 2 pair of mittens (or a pair each of
mittens and gloves), wind/rain parka with hood, rain pants, warm winter mountaineering
boots (plastic recommended), down jacket with hood, 2 pair each of liner and wool or
synthetic socks, gaiters
CLIMBING EQUIPMENT: ice axe, crampons pre-fitted to your boots, ski poles, shovel if
you have one. Leader will bring wands.
CHEMEKETAN CLIMB REGULATIONS
1. The climber agrees to pay for the climber's own medical and/or rescue expenses, whether
or not authorized by the climber in the event of accident or illness.
2. Guests must sign a RELEASE FROM LIABILITY AND ASSUMPTION OF RISK, available at the
trailhead.
3. The climb leader reserves the right to refuse to allow anyone to participate in the
climb if the leader believes that the person is not adequately prepared or suited for the
climb.
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