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Broken Top Climb Prospectus

PEAK:
Broken Top                       ELEVATION: 9,175 FT
ROUTE:
NW Ridge                          RATING: S2
DATE:
February TBA (Fri-Sun)        LEADER: Vincent Dunn 503-371-1681

PARTICIPANT ROSTER
Assistant:               
Climbers:
1. Mike Niemeyer, mwniemeyer@verizon.net
2.


DESCRIPTION

Day one we’ll begin at Dutchman Flat Sno-Park (6,300’) near Mt Bachelor at and travel west along snow-covered Cascade Lakes Hwy dropping down to 6,066' and turning right (north) toward Todd Lake. From Todd lake we'll proceed north and then northwest to 6,464' to our camp near Crater Creek. Day one travel will be about 5 miles.

Day two we’ll depart camp early and proceed northerly along the west slope of the mountain until we gain the NW Ridge. Then up the NW Ridge to the summit and return to camp via our climbing route.

Day three we’ll pack out the way we came in past Todd Lake and back to Dutchman Flat.

This will be a challenging climb in full winter conditions. Considerable winter mountaineering experience required.  3,000+ ft of elevation gain and 18 miles round-trip. Moderate pace.

MEETING LOCATION AND DRIVING DIRECTIONS

We will meet at SKM in Salem at 6am Friday morning and drive to Dutchman Flat Sno-Park near Mt Bachelor (150mi/ 3 hrs) via Hwy 22 to Sisters, Bend, and Dutchman Flat.

REFERENCE/MAPS
Thomas, Jeff, Oregon High: A Climbing Guide (Keep Climbing Press, 1991), pp. 104-107. Maps: “Three Sisters Wilderness”, published by the USFS in 1981, Geo-Graphics Three Sisters Wilderness map, or South Sister, 7.5’ quadrangle, USGS.     Topo of the Route

EMERGENCY CONTACT

We will be mostly in the Deschutes National Forest within Deschutes County. In case of an accident, call 911, or notify the Deschutes County Sheriff, 541-388-6502 (Search and Rescue). Use this second number if the party is overdue by 24 hours.

REQUIRED EQUIPMENT AND CLOTHING

ESSENTIALS
: map and compass (GPS unit if you have one), headlamp with extra batteries and bulb, sunglasses and/or ski goggles, sunscreen and lip protection, small first aid kit, waterproof matches and fire starter, 2 liters of water, pocket knife, whistle, food for 2 full days, snacks, extra food, extra clothing, tarp/emergency blanket, insulated pad

CAMPING: tent, pad, and sleeping bag suitable for cold weather winter camping, stove and fuel

CLOTHING FOR COLD, RAIN, WIND, AND INTENSE SUN:
wool or synthetic clothing (several layers), wool or pile cap, sun hat or bandana, 2 pair of mittens (or a pair each of mittens and gloves), wind/rain parka with hood, rain pants, warm winter mountaineering boots (plastic recommended), down jacket with hood, 2 pair each of liner and wool or synthetic socks, gaiters

CLIMBING EQUIPMENT:
ice axe, crampons pre-fitted to your boots, ski poles, shovel if you have one. Leader will bring wands.

CHEMEKETAN CLIMB REGULATIONS

1. The climber agrees to pay for the climber's own medical and/or rescue expenses, whether or not authorized by the climber in the event of accident or illness.
2. Guests must sign a RELEASE FROM LIABILITY AND ASSUMPTION OF RISK, available at the trailhead.
3. The climb leader reserves the right to refuse to allow anyone to participate in the climb if the leader believes that the person is not adequately prepared or suited for the climb.